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#50471 - 11/11/17 10:59 PM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
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Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
The Travel Retail Exclusive tasting on the 23rd Nov. sold out so I turned attention to the Christmas Tasting on the 14th December which sold out before I mentioned it on Facebook/websites/forums. As there is quite a waiting list let's schedule another festive tasting for 7:30pm Thursday 7th December at The Kilderkin. Line up of drams to be confirmed.

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#50476 - 15/11/17 01:39 PM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
I don't want to give too much away about the line up of the two Christmas tastings as when possible I like to pour the drams blind so everyone can judge the whiskies on their merits rather than be persuaded by expectations of reputation, age cask type, brand etc.

I will say that in the cupboard there is a privately bottled Arran at cask strength from a sherry cask, Glen Marnoch 29yo, Aldi's 1978 Armagnac, 40yo Port and 26yo Irish single malt. I've also got a cask strength Laphroaig only available from the distillery....

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#50492 - 25/12/17 10:38 AM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
Merry Christmas everyone - sorry another year has passed and the tasting write ups are once again sparse, I reallly enjoy them but time seems elusive. Maybe next year things will improve. I hope you have something nice in your glass and good company to share it with.

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#50496 - 26/12/17 10:37 PM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Beefy Offline
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Registered: 23/11/02
Posts: 404
Loc: FIFE SCOTLAND UK
What was the collective opinion of the Glen Marnoch? I have quite enjoyed my bottle of it. Any ideas where it hails from?

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#50499 - 27/12/17 06:05 PM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Beefy]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
It split the room - one voter had it the best of the night. I'm finding polarity a bit of a feature at the moment, either the drams posses such particular flavours that having a broad audience is unlikely or the reguars just are not on the same wavelength as me. There were three vocal tables at the last tasting. One, the 'trade' were pretty hard to please, the chemists were on the fence whilst the'party table' sponged up everything.

For me the Glenmarnoch was fine - nothing remarkable so don't lose any sleep if you missed it. On paper a 29yo single malt for £40 is a bargain buit I'm not sure I have enough money to justify buying one for the cupboard. I'd go for a Tamdhu 10yo myself. Having said that if your leaving age/rarity/price aside it tastes okay, a bit thin perhaps, the 40% easy to spot, interestingly a few comments critiscised the brevity of finish while more than one found the lingering notes were to their satisfaction. It did possess a certain faded charm. Ce plus ca change ce plus ca non change as I've wittered before (I only know this snippet of sagacity thanks to a Rush song).

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#50505 - 10/01/18 08:13 PM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
Dates for 2018 are confirmed but the themes are to be finalised

Jan 18 Mystery theme 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25
- 5 drams linked but the connection is secret

Feb 8 Benriach Vertical 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25

March 1 POURS 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25
5 drams from the broad selection this Speysider has to offer.

March 22 POURS 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25

April 12 Fab 50s - 5 drams from 50cl bottles £25
Tenuous! But hosting a tasting of 50yo whiskies isn't too realistic.

May 3 POURS 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25

May 24 Mystery Vertical 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25
5 drams from the same distillery. The source will be revealed at the end of the tasting.

June 14 POURS 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25

July 5 Vertical TBC : potentially Benromach, Glen Moray Knockdhu, Glengarioch, Bunnahabhain, Glen Grant, Glenglassaugh 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25

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#50513 - 19/01/18 11:12 AM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
So the big mystery : it was all blends. Perhaps wrongly I assumed poor attendnace for a tasting built around blended whisky. As it happened 26 of us took the plunge. I wasn't sure how long to keep the connection between the drams secret but we lasted until the final pour. There was some good guesses but nobody got close (although Ross said he guessed early but I never heard the comment). We started with 13 different minatures - so two people tasted the same dram : both the current version and an historic example - bottled either 20 or 30 years ago. Generally the older ones faired better but the modern incarnations often appealed more than the earlier style. We then tried Tweedale 28yo (£185)- an example of a luxury blend, fruity and generally popular. The scope of the tasting was broad but actually tracking down bottles wasn't as easy as I thought. We could have tired Canadian or Japanese blends, single-singles or single blends but in the end I went for Writer's Tears cask strength Irish - a mix of malt whisky and pot still (pot still being malted and unmalted barley) again very popular, tropical fruits being the signature, another posh one at £100. Next was Nomad, full sherry effect, used before at the tastings but worthy of a repeat due to the unique character - pretty popular and a bargain. Finally a nod to peaty blends with Islay Mist, again much cheapness. We'll do another mystery theme before too long.

Next tasting - a vertical Benriach. 8.2.18 £25

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#50517 - 28/01/18 11:37 AM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
Next tasting:

Thursday February 8th Benriach Vertical 7:30pm The Kilderkin £25

Hopefully some triple distilled spirit, an unusual cask maturation but definately the current 10yo compared with one from the 1990s and their now discontinued peated 'Solstice' expression.

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#50520 - 07/02/18 12:50 AM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
Triple distilled spirit eluded me (there was a chance of a Horizons 12yo port cask finished at 50% but as we tried it 10 years ago and it didn't display any particular character ascribable to triple distillatios I thought we'd not repeat the pour). There will be the brand new 21yo and a Burgundy cask bottled quite some time ago. There will also be a bottle of Something Special from the 70s, a blend Benriach would have gone into and some new make.

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#50528 - 19/02/18 11:27 AM Re: Edinburgh/Canongate Regular Tastings [Re: Leither]
Jolly Toper Offline
Full Member

Registered: 18/01/08
Posts: 894
Loc: East Calder, West Lothian, Sco...
We recently had a vertical tasting featuring Benriach. If time allows I like to compile any notes into a readable form. I think over time I've posted them all here but if you want there is a link below to my website's 'distillery profile' section. Please add anything you think relevant or point out any inaccuracies.

Jolly Toper distillery profiles


Benriach Distillery

Benriach-Glenlivet is situated a few miles south of Elgin in the Speyside region. It is named after Riach farm, ‘Riach’ meaning either "Hill of the red deer” or more likely “speckled Mountain”, although it was originally called ‘Longmorn No.2”.

Foundation and the Early Days

The story begins with John Duff (b. Aberchirder, 1842). His family owned land around Miltonduff just west of Elgin. In the 1870s he managed Glendronach distillery but then went on to be the publican at The Fife Arms in Lhanbryde near Elgin. He built Glenlossie distillery in 1876 in partnership with two local businessmen : Alexander Grigor Allan (d. 1895) who was the Procurator Fiscal for Morayshire and Aberdeen wine & spirit merchant Roderick Kemp. On the dissolution of the partnership in 1892 Grigor became sole owner of Talisker and Kemp went on to own Macallan. From 1887 sales of Glenlossie were exclusively via John Hopkins the London based blender and from 1890 proprietor of Tobermory distillery as well as the Old Mull brand. Hopkins was originally a partner in Glenlossie but left in 1888. Another partner was H. M. S. MacKay who was both Elgin's burgh surveyor and a land agent. Glenlossie was built under the supervision of Duff to his own plans. It is one of the first examples of the use of concrete in construction in the distilling industry with only the stone built stillhouse not using the then new material. In 1887 Duff was described as “a great moving spirit” by The Aberdeen Journal. Certainly he seems to have successfully climbed ladders but his next ‘move’ may not have been his best. In 1888 Duff emigrated to South Africa with his wife and 3 daughters. He tried to distil in Gauteng Province in the Transvaal, an area where gold had recently been discovered. He failed to find success perhaps mainly due to opposition to British influences and investment from President Kruger which led to the blocking of Duff’s plans. Duff attempted a similar scheme in the USA. This plan likewise didn't bear fruit, apparently a combination of the competition from illicit distilling and again anti-British sentiment. Returning to Scotland in 1892 he found work as the distillery manager at Aberdeen's Bon Accord distillery having his registered address in the city at 5 Union Terrace. He also became a partner in an Aberdeen wine and spirit merchant. He was 52 when he went into partnership with George Thomson & Charles Shirres in 1894 under the trading name of John Duff & Co.. They built Longmorn distillery, spending £20k (equivalent to £2M today). In 4 years Duff had bought out the other two and built Benriach with the profits from Longmorn at a cost of £16,000. This time he entrusted the distillery design with Elgin architect Charles Doig. Building of Benriach on an adjacent site to Longmorn commenced in 1897 with production starting in 1898. At this point the company was changed from Longmorn-Glenlivet Distillery Company by being incorporated into Longmorn-Glenlivet Distilleries Company Limited while Hill Thomson & Co.Ltd and Longmorn distillery manager James Grant and his son ran the distillery when Duff, the sole share owner, ran into financial difficulties and the distillery was repossessed by the bank. This was a disastrous period for many businesses in the whisky industry as boom turned to bust. To illustrate the intensity of the optimism around this time: an amazing total of 33 distilleries were built in the 1890s with 21 of these being in Speyside. Production stopped in 1900 due to the collapse of the market. In this year Duff was officially declared bankrupt although he had been insolvent before this. By 1901 the Board of Directors included J.A. Dewar of John Dewar & Sons, Arthur Sanderson of VAT 69 and James Anderson of J.G. Thomson, Leith. Despite the influence of such names the distillery had to shut come 1903.

Recent History

When the dark days of the first half of the 20th century turned to the post WWII recovery rising demand prompted building and expansion of distilleries. After sitting dormant for over 60 years Benriach was rebuilt and reopened in 1965. The current stillroom was originally a warehouse, the mash house is original while the tun room dates from the refit. Up until 1980 a private rail link was used to move goods between Benriach and its sister Longmorn. The shunting engine, called a ‘puggie’, is now preserved at Aviemore. Since closing in 1900 and the subsequent mothballing in 1903 the floor maltings were however retained and used to contribute to Longmorn's malt needs. This remained the case even after Benriach reopened. Only after the rail link closed did Benriach use its own malt. The output of the malting floors contributing 7/8% of grain requirements at the time. In 1970 an amalgamation between The Glenlivet and Glen-Grant Distilleries Ltd. and Hill, Thomson & Co. Ltd. formed The Glenlivet Distilleries Ltd. Shortly after this in 1972 batches of malt using significant levels started. This would have been due to the high demand put on Isaly malts by blenders. On the subject of peating: previous to this increase in peat levels it was reported that in 1967 Longmorn stopped using Mannochhill peat and started using New Pitsligo while circa 1987 Benriach had peat cutting rights at Faemussach Moor near Tomintoul. Similar experiments with peated malt took place at Caperdonich and Glen Keith, the latter going under the name Glen Isla. Other trials included the use of virgin oak.

In November 1977 Glenlivet Distilleries were taken over by the Seagram Company Ltd. of Canada and was operated under the control of Seagram's Scottish subsidiary Chivas Brothers. Seagram liked a light spirit for their house style of blends for example Benriach was a major component of their Queen Anne brand which was named after the last serving Stewart monarch as well as 100 Pipers, Chivas Regal itself, St. Leger and Something Special. The latter brand dated from 1912 when it was created by Hill Thomson and is to this day big in South America. Steps to boost output at the distillery came when the number of stills were increased from 2 to 4 in 1985. From 1965 there was one large wash still and two small spirit stills. This was later adjusted when a second wash still with a 15KL charge was added and the two small spirit stills were replaced with a single larger one. Due to the ensuing imbalance the new large spirit still was retired and the original stills returned. Also at this time a 7 day working week was introduced. Perhaps these are surprising moves as at this time many distilleries were being mothballed or had production levels reduced. At this point capacity would have been about 1.8ML. From this date the distillery had a dedicated manager, since 1965 this role had also included the management of Longmorn. From 1978 Stuart Gillies was the manager having spent the previous 20 years at Glen Grant. Come 1994 the first bottling of a single malt from the distillery was featured in the Heritage Collection alongside Strathisla, Glenkeith and Longmorn- all Speyside not dramatically dissimilar in character so the offering was no where near as diverse as the Classic Malts. By 1998 the maltings were decommissioned. Then on 19.12.2001 Seagrams was bought by Pernod Ricard creating the 3rd largest spirits company. Subsequently due to the overall increase in company capacity four distilleries: Benriach, Allt A'Bhainne, Braeval and Caperdonich were each only operated for 3 months of the year. The following year all four distilleries were mothballed.

Unusually for the region triple distillation was experimented with in 1998 and was later reinstated by subsequent owners under the guidance of Billy Walker. Currently some three times distilled spirit has been produced every second year. From the original experiment the necessary 5th still is apparently now an 'ornament’ in Ontario(!).

A New Chapter

On 26th April 2004 Billy Walker, Wayne Kieswetter and Geoff Bell operating under the name Intra Trading buy the distillery from Pernod - reportedly paying £5.4M. 40,000 casks are acquired the earliest from 1966 with only a few vintages missing. Billy Walker, an organic chemist, joined Ballantines in 1971 later moving to Inverhouse as a blender. After a later move to Burn Stewart to become their master blender then production manager he was part of the management buy out that took over the company in 1988. Under the new owners 96 first fill Bourbon barrels are warehoused on 20.9.2004 marking the first filling of new spirit production having recommenced shortly after acquisition. 7.8.2004 saw the first new releases of bottled products. In 2007 the owner’s stewardship is rewarded with the accolade Distillery of the Year from Malt Advocate magazine. A significant development comes in 2008 when the company acquires Glendronach also from Chivas. In 2009 the Whisky Distillery of the Year award comes this time from Whisky Magazine. 2011 marks the first year the new owners were able to fill 10,000 casks. Two years later floor malting is restarted although due to cost it is unlikely more than 10% of requirements will be hand malted. In the same year the next acquisition in the form of Glenglassaugh is added to the portfolio. From 2012 it was decided that 200k litres of peated spirit are to be made each January and February. By 2017 this had risen to 0.5ML. Currently the capacity of the distillery stands at 2.8ML. The latest development came in 2017 when American based Brown Forman takes over for £286M. Most recently, in March 2017, industry personality Rachel Barrie takes over as master blender.

Equipment, Fermentation and Water.

Cast iron rake and arm mash tun. 8 stainless steel washbacks of 30kl capacity. 48 & 66 hour ferments. Shell & tube condensers. Plain wash still: 15KL charge, plain spirit still: 9.6kl charge. Horizontal lyne arms.The Porteus mill with two de-stoners dates from 1965. 5 dunnage warehouses holding 30K casks. Water comes from 6 wells at Burnside Springs about half a mile from the distillery and is shared with Longmorn. Cooling water is from the same burn that was used by Coleburn, then Glen Elgin, Longmorn and eventually Linkwood.

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